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General_Redwolf
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Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 8:56 pm |
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Joined: Mon Jun 29, 2009 3:23 pm Posts: 13
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okay, i was just scrolling through the rulebook, and a few logistical question popped into my head. here's one:
"Arrows must have a minimum of 2 inches of closed cell
foam on the tip, and it must be at least 2.5 inches in diameter. It
is suggested that you also incorporate a layer of open cell foam
to reduce the recoil of the arrow when it strikes a solid surface."
-rulebook 7.5
does this mean i could use funnoodle media to pad my arrows?
also, i have a CRAPLOAD of wooden dowels around, so I'd like to make arrows. i have a lightweight tape to wrap them in, and the sheer nerve to use them, but the problem is flighting them. this question could also apply to an arrow made of fiberglass or aluminum or such that has had the flights ripped off. i came across a method of flighting arrows the other day that involved taking two pieces of tape and sandwiching the shaft, then cutting the tape into shape. would this be acceptable?
I'm really not worried about its short flight path or its logistical nightmares, i just want to know if this is possible to pass as legal.
_________________ Helpful advice:
Blades don't need reloading.
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TigerHawke
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Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 8:48 am |
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Joined: Sat Apr 25, 2009 10:23 pm Posts: 854
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I don't know about the second half of your inquiry, but using 2 layers of camp foam on the funnoodle 'arrow heads' and then using HALF a yard/recreational ball on top of the foam makes a soft and SAFE tip. Just tape it on. Recreational balls can be found in the kid's section at Academy Sports stores. This is the best method I have found out of all my attempts and the 1/2 ball provides a good recoil. A package of 3 balls was $1.99 (plus the ever present tax;) and you'll get to cap off 6 arrows.
Plus with this method you are over the 2" required for legality and the diameter is perfect.
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Krylis
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Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 3:12 pm |
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Joined: Fri Feb 03, 2006 12:57 pm Posts: 137
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If you want fast fletchings, you can look at Academy Sports. They have a product that is basically a plastic tube with the fletchings on it. You line it up where you want it and dip it hot water. It shrink wraps to the shaft.
_________________ ---
"We must all fear evil men, but there is another kind of evil which we must fear most. And that is the indifference of good men."
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KalXen
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Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 3:52 pm |
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Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2008 9:17 pm Posts: 20
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I honestly would avoid the wooden shaft's altogether. Even with the perfect taping, I have seen some pretty nasty shaft breaks on the field that could of hurt someone, and at least two minor injuries that come to mind. Granted, as Larin would chime in, this was back when the dinosaurs were playing cards and swapping recipes.
I see it as lots of trouble and time wasted that's worth the investment into manufactured commercial carbon or aluminum shafts. The more time you put in to making them balanced and safe, the worse you feel when they are inevitably stepped on in the first battle game.
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General_Redwolf
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Posted: Mon Sep 14, 2009 2:19 am |
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Joined: Mon Jun 29, 2009 3:23 pm Posts: 13
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[krylis]
thank you for telling me; i didn't know that existed. unfortunately, a lot of the suggestions you guys offer that involve purchasing something i cannot do at this time, because i am out of a job and completely and utterly broke.
[kalxen]
yes, comparatively they are complete crap, and i've experienced breaks like that while hunting with wood, but after i saw this i decided to coat the dowels i used as arrow candidates in a laminate used in the aircraft industry to keep enclosed plywood molds [such as a box mold for cubes] together while a fast-expanding foam [like AB foam] overfills it. it's basically comparative of turning the wood into polycarbonate plastic, and at that point the tape is a superfluous item used to keep the reeves quiet.
_________________ Helpful advice:
Blades don't need reloading.
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Docsi
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Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 2:24 pm |
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Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2010 11:05 am Posts: 497 Location: Tahlequah, Oklahoma
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well, Im building a crossbow, so am considering the wooden shafts simply due to the length of the bolt. I would hate to waste my good arrow shafts when a dowel would make three bolts. Mine will be taped and also painted with plasti-dip, hmmm....just had a thought, perhaps solid carbon kite-spar for shafts? or maybe even bamboo shafts?
_________________ Duke, Squire Docsi HardAnvil aka the Mad Dwarf GMR of Dreadmoor Squire to Sir Logan T. Black Clan Chieftain of the Turtle Clan Ship's Surgeon, HMS "Turtle's Revenge" Gaslight Sky Pirate
"Dwarves and mountains have one thing in common: It takes an almighty hammer and a tremendous amount of persistence to overcome them."
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Thorgar
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Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 3:09 pm |
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Joined: Wed Dec 02, 2009 7:00 pm Posts: 165
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go look at Barnett online, they sell full size crossbows under 450 FPP. Specifically the phantom Jr youth crossbow. Also they sell carbon graphite bolts, a bit more than wooden bolts but far more cost effective. You'll go through (as in break) 2 or 3 wooden bolts minimum in a good Battlegame.
The bolts are less expensive than the arrows as I recall, also the Phantom Jr goes from $30.00 to $80.00 online. They do come in straight black with no camo thankfully.
If your going with a custom made crossbow I would HIGHLY recommend going with non wooden bolts. Wood bolts break fast and quick, aluminum lasts longer but does bend and warp after a few weeks and never flies straight again even after being put through an arrow straightener.
If you are on a budget then go to your local sporting good store or Wal-mart and pick up single bolts one at a time till you have the amount you want. Trust me you will save money in the long run as you'll have bolts that last years vs bolts that will last just days before they have to be replaced.
_________________ I love it when real life mimics ragdoll physics.
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